Designed by Emile Pingat and made up at his Atelier in Paris, this is an afternoon dress from 1896.
Collection of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.
ab. 1912 Evening dress (by Girolamo Giuseffi, “G. Giuseffi Ladies’ Tailoring Company”)
silk satin, silk velvet, silk chiffon, silk net, pearls, rhinestones, sequins
(Indianapolis Museum of Art)
Dress
Paul Poiret
1920s
A leader in adopting new trends, Poiret, who opened his store in 1903, had keen insight into the fashion sensibilities of the early twentieth century. He presented a dress without a corset in 1906 and later introduced a series of works influenced by the avant-garde Ballets Russes that incorporated motifs from Egypt and Eastern Europe, among other sources. As he sought to break away from nineteenth-century-style clothing that conformed to and restricted the body, he worked to create a straight cut and gentle drape in his dresses, drawing on clothing features from several countries, including Japan.
Poiret’s wife, Denise, is said to have worn this dress, tailored to suggest a black woven “haori”, or short coat, worn over a gray kimono. The haori-style collar would have allowed the wearer to wrap a stole around her neck. Judging from the ground pattern of linked weights, the stenciled shibori pattern of linked semicircles, the area-dyeing (okezome) in gray and black, and the red seals stamped on the lining, the fabric might be of Japanese origin—a likelihood given that Poiret collected fabrics from around the world.
Kyoto Costume Institute
Dress
Paul Poiret
1920s
A leader in adopting new trends, Poiret, who opened his store in 1903, had keen insight into the fashion sensibilities of the early twentieth century. He presented a dress without a corset in 1906 and later introduced a series of works influenced by the avant-garde Ballets Russes that incorporated motifs from Egypt and Eastern Europe, among other sources. As he sought to break away from nineteenth-century-style clothing that conformed to and restricted the body, he worked to create a straight cut and gentle drape in his dresses, drawing on clothing features from several countries, including Japan.
Poiret’s wife, Denise, is said to have worn this dress, tailored to suggest a black woven “haori”, or short coat, worn over a gray kimono. The haori-style collar would have allowed the wearer to wrap a stole around her neck. Judging from the ground pattern of linked weights, the stenciled shibori pattern of linked semicircles, the area-dyeing (okezome) in gray and black, and the red seals stamped on the lining, the fabric might be of Japanese origin—a likelihood given that Poiret collected fabrics from around the world.
Kyoto Costume Institute
Afternoon dress by Jeanne Hallée, Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute
Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr., 1967
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY
Medium: silk
Afternoon dress by Jeanne Hallée, Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute
Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Frederick H. Prince, Jr., 1967
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY
Medium: silk
Why am I not surprised that we both follow this channel.
Old-fashioned horsewomen/cat ladies thinking alike as always! 👍
Vintage Beach wear